Columbia

Lonely Planet photojournalist Dominic Bonuccelli steps off the beaten path to discover what Colombia has in store for adventurous travellers. Dom has photographed everyone from Tibetan nuns to US presidents, but this is his first assignment in South America.Colombia's long-running civil war and its central role in the cocaine industry have left the country with a reputation for kidnapping and violence. With the cocaine cartels on the back foot and murder rates in decline, government victories against guerrillas are now opening up parts of the country that have been off-limits to travellers for decades.Armed with nothing more than a camera kit and a profound fear of spiders, Dom's task is to find out how safe and ready Colombia is for foreign travellers, and whether the rewards outweigh the risks.Dom's journey begins in the mountain city of Medellin, Pablo Escobar's one-time cocaine capital, takes in the Andean glaciers of El Cocuy National Park, the cowboy culture of Valledupar and the Arhuaco Indians of the Sierra Madre before emerging on the Caribbean Coast right into the chaos and colour of Barranquilla's outrageous Carnival.With only three weeks to complete his assignment and come to grips with this enigmatic country, Dom has to contend with a ticking clock, army roadblocks, gun-slinging vaqueros, altitude sickness and his own preconceptions in order to discover what lies down the road less travelled.

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