Overview
Perched at the northwestern tip of France, Brittany reaches out into the Atlantic Ocean. The people of Brittany are called le Breton, which sounds similar to the word Britain, and there is good reason for that. Unlike the people from any other part of France, le Breton are of Celtic descent. They came from the British Isles. crossing over the English Channel, and arrived in Brittany around A.D. 500. Le Breton were independent for over a thousand years, so they developed a unique culture with their own traditions, dress and language. You may want to write down a few Breton words for referral. Hello, demat. Goodbye, kenavo.
Quimper makes an excellent central base from which to explore Brittany. It's considered to be the cultural and historic heart of the region. The Odet River runs through the center of Quimper and is punctuated by footbridges decorated with hanging baskets of overflowing flowers.
The people of Brittany have a tremendous connection to the sea, and a big part of your trip to Brittany will be exploring the many seacoast towns and villages. It's absolutely essential that you have a car; renting one is probably your best option.
Sights/Landmarks/To Do
Gothic Quarter of Quimper: Quimper takes great pride in its looks. It's an absolutely delightful city, especially the old town, which emanates from the Gothic Quarter. Plus, it's largely pedestrian-only, so you have the space to admire its architectural attributes. Thick granite stone buildings stand tall and inflexible next to half-timbered homes that appear to be slouching. There are rows of large windows with bright colorful shutters. No doubt about it - when it comes to personality, the Gothic Quarter of Quimper has it by the busloads.
Shopping in Quimper: The shopping in Quimper is outstanding. It's an upscale sort of city, so items can be quite expensive. The shops sell everything from home products to shoes and clothing, but Quimper is mostly known for its pottery. All the pottery is handmade in Quimper by individual artists. Faïence pottery is typical of the area. The first Faïence factory was created in 1619. Brittany is also famous for its lace. Bretons have been producing fine hand-sewn lace for hundreds of years.
Locronan: Locronan is about a 30-minute drive from Quimper. Where Quimper is a more cosmopolitan city, Locronan is a true Breton town, marvelously well-preserved. The Locronan become prosperous in the 15th century, when it was famous for its weaving. Its artisans made cloth sails for such clients as the French navy and Spanish armada. Today, Locronan feels like a small artists' colony and is known for its artisan-quality crafts. Handblown glass is made before your eyes, and handwoven items are popular as well.
Return of the fishing fleet in Locronan: Every afternoon between 4 and 6 o'clock, the independent fishermen of Le Guilvinec arrive home. At first, the boats are dots on the horizon, but as they come closer, you can make out their shapes, which are as varied as the fishermen themselves. Two, three, four at a time, they come in to quickly unload their catch. Fish stack up like bricks, and there are crates full of still-squirming, bright pink langoustines. Parking can get tricky, so as soon as the fish is unloaded, the boats motor away so that other boats can jockey for a place. It's like watching all the floats come into view in the Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade.
Hotels
Hotel Gradlon, Quimper: Hotel Gradlonhas a homey feel to it and is a comfortable place to stay. You'll enjoy the large fireplace and well-stocked bar, as well as the flower-filled courtyard with trickling fountain, and the sunroom, where you can enjoy breakfast. This is a small, intimate hotel with just over 20 rooms. It's outside the city walls, but still gets international guests, people who are traveling for fun and for business. Room rates are a bit expensive for Quimper, but it's one of the town's best hotels.
Web site: www.hotel-gradlon.com
Food/Restaurants/Bars
Crêpes: Brittany, unlike most of France, isn't known for its fine cuisine or a particular style of cooking. It is, however, responsible for one very important contribution to France's culinary tradition: the crêpe. You can find crêperies all over every town in Brittany, and the crêpes are filled with everything from ham and eggs to jam. They're filling and inexpensive.
Seafood/Oysters: Brittany is renowned for the freshness of its seafood. The shellfish plateau of local oysters, crab and langoustines is a classic Breton dish. It doesn't have an artery-clogging, buttery sauce. It's not baked in puff pastry. It's just served fresh from the sea with a lemon. Oysters are another local specialty. What the crab is to Maryland and the lobster is to Maine, the oyster is to Brittany. Many oysters come from Brittany, but the Belon is considered to be the best. At an oyster farm in Belon, you can order oysters, bread and a bottle of wine and enjoy them right on the spot.
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