Overview
Milan is a much maligned city, because it has the gall not to live up to our romantic ideals of Italy. It doesn't have Roman monuments, Renaissance splendor or a view of the Mediterranean, and you don't really sense the Italian sweetness of doing nothing. But what Milan lacks in monuments and beauty, it makes up for in style and substance. Milan isn't the capital of Italy, but it is the nation's center for media, finance and fashion. As a result, it is a very busy, important and moneyed city.
Sights/Landmarks/To Do
Piazza del Duomo: The Piazza del Duomo is the epicenter of Milan and a fantastic place to people-watch. Just grab an espresso or a gelato and watch this complex city unfold. When you're tired of people-watching, the duomo, or basilica, of the city's cathedral should hold your attention. There are lots of duomos in Italy, but this one is probably the most famous, as it is one of the largest churches in Christendom. The architecture is an amazing sight to behold. From the roof, you have a view of some of the 3,500 statues that adorn the cathedral, including the beloved symbol of Milan, the Madonnina.
Web site: duomomilano.com
Metro: Duomo
Hours: Daily 10-1:15 and 3-6
The Last Supper: Milan was once home to one of the greatest artists who has ever lived, Leonardo da Vinci. He lived in Milan for 17 years and in that time painted the masterpiece The Last Supper, which is now housed in the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. Reservations are required to view the painting; be sure to make them in advance.
Where: Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie 2, off Corso Magenta, Sant'Ambrogio
Metro: Cadorna
Hours: Tue.-Sun. 8-7:30; last entry 6:45 p.m.
National Museum of Science and Technology: Milan isn't just a city to view da Vinci's art. You can also explore his mind, in the National Museum of Science and Technology. A highlight of the da Vinci exhibit is the collection of interactive models created from his 15th-century drawings.
Web site: www.museoscienza.org
Metro: Sant'Ambrogio
Hours: Tue.-Fri. 9:30 a.m.-4:50 p.m., weekends 9:30 a.m.-6:20 p.m.
Navigli: It's hard to believe that Milan once had a network of canals as important to the city as those found in Venice. Most of them were filled in when the city moved from agriculture to major industry, but a couple still remain. Navigli, the neighborhood around the canals, is a little rough around the edges in some parts but completely charming in others. It has always been known for its artisans. Tiny stores, workshops and yet-to-be-discovered fashion designers mix in with cafés and restaurants ranging from neighborhood to hip. Here, you'll see that Milan, a city where commercialism is king, is still a place of independence and innovation.
Quadrilatero d'Oro: Quadrilatero d'Oro is Milan's shopping hub. In this single area, you'll find Versace, Moschino, Fendi, Paciotti, Damiani and Pasquali. However, before there were hundreds of these haute couture shops, there was just one: Prada. At nearly a century old, it's the oldest store in Milan.
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele: Leave it to Milan to have one of the most elegant and stylish shopping malls a city could have - the Galleria. Topped by a glass dome, this brilliant shopping arcade leads you from the Piazza del Duomo to the Teatro alla Scala, one of the greatest venues in the world to see the opera.
Metro: Duomo
Hotels
Antica Locanda dei Mercanti: The Antica Locanda dei Mercanti is located about five minutes from the Piazza del Duomo, off a pedestrian-only thoroughfare, with no signs. Its 14 rooms are scattered about in a 19th-century building, which is also used for businesses and residences. It isn't a typical hotel, but that's not always a bad thing. All the rooms are vastly different, but all provide a home-away-from-home feeling and a dash of romance. There is no television, but there are stacks of books and magazines to keep you occupied. Milan is a very noisy city in the morning. Delivery trucks, garbage trucks and trams clank by, so no matter what hotel you choose, if you're a light sleeper, ask for a courtyard room. They are a lot quieter.
Web site: www.locanda.it
Food/Restaurants/Bars
Luini Bakery: In Milan, the Luini Bakery is a city institution. They serve all types of baked goods, but people line up for the panzarotta, a sweet hot-pocket pizza. It's sweet fried dough filled with cheese and sauce, so you get dinner and dessert all in one pocket!
The Brera: This tavern is one of the busiest in town, especially in the early evening. During happy hour, it has an all-you-can-eat display of snack foods. After that, everybody's off to the disco. The discotheques in Milan stay open until at least 3 a.m.