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The Grecian island of Halki is a measly 11-square-mile rectangle in the Aegean Sea. But its small size serves as an advantage: No matter where you’re standing, you’re within walking distance of the Emporio -- the port where fishing boat captains exchange fables from their excursions to the nearby island of Rhodes, located 4 miles east. Meanwhile, villagers (all 300 or so of them) are eager to lead you past stucco buildings to the medieval castle upon a hill.