The terra-cotta roofs that dot the skyline of the towns known as Pueblos Blancos in Spain’s Andalusia region disappear as you enter the small, medieval town of Setenil de las Bodegas. This ethereal and other worldly landscape is the result of homes and storefronts built into the jagged mountainside. Here the horizon is dominated by the ruins of a 12th-century Moorish fortress. The nearby caves, originally used as the fortress’s wine cellar, now house cafes that sell honey-covered pastries, as well as cheese and the region’s famed chorizo, in a setting all its own.
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