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Leave the urban bustle of the resort towns of Zihuatanejo and Ixtapa behind and drive about 25 minutes north to the village of Troncones, population of about 500. That doesn’t include the drivers of the beer and soft drink trucks that cruise the Pacific beaches waiting to serve thirsty surfers. A half dozen inns, a couple of intimate resorts and homes with private rooms and baths offer accommodations for visitors to the star of the show: a world-class beach hailed by more travel magazines than you knew existed.