Mother of All Conflicts

Mariana van Zeller and Michael Voltaggio travel to Israel and Palestine to bring both sides together for a meal and conversation. They get caught in the streets of Hebron among locals, soldiers and settlers as they explore the holiest sites on Earth.

From This Episode

shawarma, meat, gyro
Shawarma

Shawarma

Delicious Middle Eastern spices are infused into either lamb, chicken, turkey, beef or veal, and then the meat is slow-cooked for nearly 24 hours to create shawarma. The most popular ways to eat shawarma are in a gyro or with flatbread (aka taboon bread). Find shawarma at countless places in Jerusalem, including Hamarosh and Moshiko. 960 1280

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Falafel

Falafel

The falafel, made of fava beans and/or chickpeas (aka garbanzo beans), is extremely good and healthy. It's normally topped with a variety of ingredients, including tahini, cucumbers, tomatoes and more. Almost always sold alongside shawarma, falafel has found its way to the West, quickly becoming a go-to for a quick meal in large cities such as New York City  and Washington, DC. 960 1280

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Rugelach

Rugelach

This gem is made of yeast-leavened, sour cream or cream cheese dough that’s filled with some of the sweetest combinations around: raisins, walnuts, cinnamon, chocolate, marzipan, poppy seeds or fruit preserves. When in Jerusalem, try rugelach at the popular Marzipan Bakery. 960 1280

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Beigeleh

Beigeleh

A tasty treat similar to its Italian cousin, the pretzel, beigeleh (or ka'ak in Arabic) is rolled-up dough covered in sesame seeds and served with an herb packet of za'atar for dipping. Beigeleh is sold on the streets in the Christian and Muslim quarters of Jerusalem's Old City.


Related: Jerusalem's Dome of the Rock

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Musakhan

Musakhan

Incredible flavors, along with a tasty bird, top a piece of taboon bread for musakhan. Cardamom, black pepper, olive oil and onions — to name a few of the ingredients — make this dish very tasty. Enjoy it from vendors in the Muslim Quarter or at Philadelphia Restaurant in East Jerusalem. 960 1280

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Hummus

Hummus

Usually served with taboon bread, hummus consists of ground chickpeas (aka garbanzo beans) with sesame seeds, olive oil, lemon and garlic. The Middle Eastern staple comes with almost every dish. New twists on traditional hummus include adding eggplant, sun-dried tomatoes, figs, spinach, feta and countless other combinations. 960 1280

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Sachlab

Sachlab

Sachlab, a pudding-drink made from a certain orchid plant, is served hot and enjoyed with coconut shavings, nuts and cinnamon. If you're up for trying something new, sample sachlab at the 24-hour Mifgash HaSheikh café. 960 1280

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Lamb

Lamb

Served a variety of ways (e.g., shawarma), lamb is a staple meat in Jerusalem. Enjoy it slow-cooked at Darna, a fine-dining Moroccan restaurant in Jerusalem.


Related: Moroccan Goat Tagine

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Beef and Lamb Burgers

Beef and Lamb Burgers

They're probably not the first thing you think about eating in Jerusalem, but burgers made of juicy lamb and tender beef are served at the popular Black Bar 'n' Burger in the New City. Top your burger  with traditional items, such as garlic baked in olive oil, duck breast with hot peppers, and, of course, hummus, if you wish. 960 1280

Danielkrieger.com/Moment/Getty Images  

Kebabs

Kebabs

Kebabs (called shipudim, or "skewers," in Hebrew) are the essential Middle Eastern cuisine. Simple to eat and really tasty, they consist of skewered cuts of meat — and, sometimes, veggies — on a stick. There are plenty of options all over Jerusalem, including Hashipudiya. 960 1280

Robynmac/iStock/Getty Images  

east jerusalem, homes, hills, israel
East Jerusalem

East Jerusalem

A panoramic view of East Jerusalem reveals cliffside homes and rolling hills. 960 1280

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Golden Dome

Golden Dome

Located in Jerusalem's Temple Mount, the Golden Dome is a sacred Islamic shrine. 960 1280

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Jerusalem's Old City

Jerusalem's Old City

Jews from all over the world gather in Jerusalem's Old City to pray at the Wailing Wall, also known as the Western Wall. 960 1280

Christopher Chan/Moment/Getty Images  

Church of the Holy Sepulchre

Church of the Holy Sepulchre

Many Christians make a pilgrimage to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, located within the walls of Jerusalem's Old City. 960 1280

Jeremy Woodhouse/Blend Images/Getty Images  

Jesus' Crucifixion and Buriel

Jesus' Crucifixion and Buriel

Christians believe that the Holy Sepulchre, or Church of the Resurrection, is where Jesus was crucified and buried. 960 1280

Danita Delimont/Gallo Images/Getty Images  

Jerusalem, A Spiritual City

Jerusalem, A Spiritual City

People from many faiths, including Judaism, Christianity and Islam, appreciate Jerusalem's spiritual significance. 960 1280

Gavin Hellier/Robert Harding World Imagery/Getty Images  

Mount of Olives

Mount of Olives

Journalist Mariana van Zeller and chef Michael Voltaggio look out to the Mount of Olives in Jerusalem, which holds religious prominence in the Jewish community. It's believed that, at the base of the mountain, where Jews are buried, God will redeem the deceased when the Messiah returns. 960 1280

  

Welcome to Palestine

Welcome to Palestine

A welcome sign greets locals, tourists and pilgrims who are visiting the West Bank from Jerusalem. 960 1280

  

Falafel for Lunch

Falafel for Lunch

Mariana takes a bite out of a falafel sandwich, a lunch staple in Israel that is served by countless street vendors and restaurants throughout the city. Related: Taste of Jerusalem 960 1280

  

Grocery Shopping in Jerusalem

Grocery Shopping in Jerusalem

Michael and local fixer Sameer visit a local vegetable stand in Jerusalem. Michael took the day to shop for ingredients to prepare for the big dinner later that evening, when Israelis and Palestinians would dine together and talk about the age-old problems that face their 2 populations. Related Video: Michael Voltaggio Reflects on Jerusalem 960 1280

  

Israel’s Peace Now

Israel’s Peace Now

Mariana receives an overview of the latest happenings in Israel from Yariv Oppenheimer of Peace Now, an organization whose main goal is to promote peace in the country. 960 1280

  

Israel's Hummus

Israel's Hummus

Michael and Mariana enjoy a popular local dish, hummus. Later that day, they trek over to the Palestinian territory to sample hummus once more and see if there is any real difference. Related Video: Jerusalem's Hummus Conflict 960 1280

  

Jaffa Gate

Jaffa Gate

Built in 1538, the Jaffa Gate is the main entrance to the Old City of Jerusalem. 960 1280

  

Jewish Cemetery

Jewish Cemetery

Michael and Mariana visit the Jewish cemetery on the Mount of Olives, which was established 3,000 years ago and is home to more than 70,000 tombs. 960 1280

  

Overlooking the Mount of Olives

Overlooking the Mount of Olives

Michael gets a closer look at the Mount of Olives. 960 1280

  

The Wall

The Wall

Sameer explains the conflict to Michael and Mariana as they stand outside the wall separating Israel from Palestinian territory. 960 1280

  

The Wall 02:13

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