Breaking Borders: Kashmir Pictures

Journalist Mariana van Zeller and chef Michael Voltaggio travel to the beautiful countryside of Kashmir. They learn about the conflict that threatens its existence: to be part of India, part of Pakistan or its own independent state.

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shawarma, meat, gyro
Shawarma

Shawarma

Delicious Middle Eastern spices are infused into either lamb, chicken, turkey, beef or veal, and then the meat is slow-cooked for nearly 24 hours to create shawarma. The most popular ways to eat shawarma are in a gyro or with flatbread (aka taboon bread). Find shawarma at countless places in Jerusalem, including Hamarosh and Moshiko. 960 1280

Rez-Art/iStock/Getty Images  

Falafel

Falafel

The falafel, made of fava beans and/or chickpeas (aka garbanzo beans), is extremely good and healthy. It's normally topped with a variety of ingredients, including tahini, cucumbers, tomatoes and more. Almost always sold alongside shawarma, falafel has found its way to the West, quickly becoming a go-to for a quick meal in large cities such as New York City  and Washington, D.C. 960 1280

Justin Michau/iStock/Getty Images  

Rugelach

Rugelach

This gem is made of yeast-leavened, sour cream or cream cheese dough that’s filled with some of the sweetest combinations around: raisins, walnuts, cinnamon, chocolate, marzipan, poppy seeds or fruit preserves. When in Jerusalem, try rugelach at the popular Marzipan Bakery. 960 1280

Alexandra Grablewski/Digital Vision/Getty Image  

Beigeleh

Beigeleh

A tasty treat similar to its Italian cousin, the pretzel, beigeleh (or ka'ak in Arabic) is rolled-up dough covered in sesame seeds and served with an herb packet of za'atar for dipping. Beigeleh is sold on the streets in the Christian and Muslim quarters of Jerusalem's Old City.

Related: Jerusalem's Dome of the Rock

960 1280

Alexeys/iStock/Getty Images  

Musakhan

Musakhan

Incredible flavors, along with a tasty bird, top a piece of taboon bread for musakhan. Cardamom, black pepper, olive oil and onions — to name a few of the ingredients — make this dish very tasty. Enjoy it from vendors in the Muslim Quarter or at Philadelphia Restaurant in East Jerusalem. 960 1280

Paul Cowan/iStock/Getty Images  

Hummus

Hummus

Usually served with taboon bread, hummus consists of ground chickpeas (aka garbanzo beans) with sesame seeds, olive oil, lemon and garlic. The Middle Eastern staple comes with almost every dish. New twists on traditional hummus include adding eggplant, sun-dried tomatoes, figs, spinach, feta and countless other combinations. 960 1280

Silvia Jansen/Getty Images  

Sachlab

Sachlab

Sachlab, a pudding-drink made from a certain orchid plant, is served hot and enjoyed with coconut shavings, nuts and cinnamon. If you're up for trying something new, sample sachlab at the 24-hour Mifgash HaSheikh café. 960 1280

Kerim Heper/iStock/Getty Images  

Lamb

Lamb

Served a variety of ways (e.g., shawarma), lamb is a staple meat in Jerusalem. Enjoy it slow-cooked at Darna, a fine-dining Moroccan restaurant in Jerusalem.

Related: Moroccan Goat Tagine

960 1280

Stok-Yard Studio/Photolibrary/Getty Images  

Beef and Lamb Burgers

Beef and Lamb Burgers

They're probably not the first thing you think about eating in Jerusalem, but burgers made of juicy lamb and tender beef are served at the popular Black Bar 'n' Burger in the New City. Top your burger  with traditional items, such as garlic baked in olive oil, duck breast with hot peppers, and, of course, hummus, if you wish. 960 1280

Danielkrieger.com/Moment/Getty Images  

Kebabs

Kebabs

Kebabs (called shipudim, or "skewers," in Hebrew) are the essential Middle Eastern cuisine. Simple to eat and really tasty, they consist of skewered cuts of meat — and, sometimes, veggies — on a stick. There are plenty of options all over Jerusalem, including Hashipudiya. 960 1280

Robynmac/iStock/Getty Images  

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Shawarma

Shawarma

Delicious Middle Eastern spices are infused into either lamb, chicken, turkey, beef or veal, and then the meat is slow-cooked for nearly 24 hours to create shawarma. The most popular ways to eat shawarma are in a gyro or with flatbread (aka taboon bread). Find shawarma at countless places in Jerusalem, including Hamarosh and Moshiko. 960 1280

Rez-Art/iStock/Getty Images  

Falafel

Falafel

The falafel, made of fava beans and/or chickpeas (aka garbanzo beans), is extremely good and healthy. It's normally topped with a variety of ingredients, including tahini, cucumbers, tomatoes and more. Almost always sold alongside shawarma, falafel has found its way to the West, quickly becoming a go-to for a quick meal in large cities such as New York City  and Washington, D.C. 960 1280

Justin Michau/iStock/Getty Images  

Rugelach

Rugelach

This gem is made of yeast-leavened, sour cream or cream cheese dough that’s filled with some of the sweetest combinations around: raisins, walnuts, cinnamon, chocolate, marzipan, poppy seeds or fruit preserves. When in Jerusalem, try rugelach at the popular Marzipan Bakery. 960 1280

Alexandra Grablewski/Digital Vision/Getty Image  

Beigeleh

Beigeleh

A tasty treat similar to its Italian cousin, the pretzel, beigeleh (or ka'ak in Arabic) is rolled-up dough covered in sesame seeds and served with an herb packet of za'atar for dipping. Beigeleh is sold on the streets in the Christian and Muslim quarters of Jerusalem's Old City.

Related: Jerusalem's Dome of the Rock

960 1280

Alexeys/iStock/Getty Images  

Musakhan

Musakhan

Incredible flavors, along with a tasty bird, top a piece of taboon bread for musakhan. Cardamom, black pepper, olive oil and onions — to name a few of the ingredients — make this dish very tasty. Enjoy it from vendors in the Muslim Quarter or at Philadelphia Restaurant in East Jerusalem. 960 1280

Paul Cowan/iStock/Getty Images  

Hummus

Hummus

Usually served with taboon bread, hummus consists of ground chickpeas (aka garbanzo beans) with sesame seeds, olive oil, lemon and garlic. The Middle Eastern staple comes with almost every dish. New twists on traditional hummus include adding eggplant, sun-dried tomatoes, figs, spinach, feta and countless other combinations. 960 1280

Silvia Jansen/Getty Images  

Sachlab

Sachlab

Sachlab, a pudding-drink made from a certain orchid plant, is served hot and enjoyed with coconut shavings, nuts and cinnamon. If you're up for trying something new, sample sachlab at the 24-hour Mifgash HaSheikh café. 960 1280

Kerim Heper/iStock/Getty Images  

Lamb

Lamb

Served a variety of ways (e.g., shawarma), lamb is a staple meat in Jerusalem. Enjoy it slow-cooked at Darna, a fine-dining Moroccan restaurant in Jerusalem.

Related: Moroccan Goat Tagine

960 1280

Stok-Yard Studio/Photolibrary/Getty Images  

Beef and Lamb Burgers

Beef and Lamb Burgers

They're probably not the first thing you think about eating in Jerusalem, but burgers made of juicy lamb and tender beef are served at the popular Black Bar 'n' Burger in the New City. Top your burger  with traditional items, such as garlic baked in olive oil, duck breast with hot peppers, and, of course, hummus, if you wish. 960 1280

Danielkrieger.com/Moment/Getty Images  

Kebabs

Kebabs

Kebabs (called shipudim, or "skewers," in Hebrew) are the essential Middle Eastern cuisine. Simple to eat and really tasty, they consist of skewered cuts of meat — and, sometimes, veggies — on a stick. There are plenty of options all over Jerusalem, including Hashipudiya. 960 1280

Robynmac/iStock/Getty Images  

Gorillas in the Mist

Gorillas in the Mist

Roger Amani, a guide at Volcanoes National Park, leads local fixer Ayubu Kasasa, Michael Voltaggio and Mariana van Zeller to the Umubano ("friendship") group, a family of 13 mountain gorillas led by a silverback named Charles. It is, without a doubt, one of the most popular stops in Rwanda. 960 1280

Ashley Gilbertson  

View of Rwanda from Volcanoes National Park

View of Rwanda from Volcanoes National Park

Roger Amani leads Mariana van Zeller and Michael Voltaggio out of Volcanoes National Park after spending time with the gorillas. 960 1280

Ashley Gilbertson  

Selfies!

Selfies!

Michael and Mariana capture their excitement of being with the gorillas. 960 1280

Ashley Gilbertson  

Potato Collection Inside Volcanoes National Park

Potato Collection Inside Volcanoes National Park

Ayubu, Mariana and Michael gather potatoes grown in the soil of Volcanoes National Park. Michael will use them for the dinner at the end of the trip. 960 1280

Ashley Gilbertson  

Fresh Corn!

Fresh Corn!

Mariana, Michael and Ayubu taste freshly picked corn from a roadside stand in Kigali, the capital of Rwanda. 960 1280

Ashley Gilbertson  

Women Drummers of Ingoma Nshya

Women Drummers of Ingoma Nshya

An ensemble of drummers called Ingoma Nshya, which consists of Hutu and Tutsi women, performs for Michael and Mariana. It’s their official welcome to Rwanda. Ingoma Nshya promotes female empowerment, renewal and Hutu-Tutsi reconciliation. 960 1280

Ashley Gilbertson  

Banana Picking

Banana Picking

Michael breaks off bananas from a tree outside of Kigali. Bananas are one of the biggest food crops in Rwanda. 960 1280

Ashley Gilbertson  

View of Kigali in the Distance

View of Kigali in the Distance

A beautiful view of Rwanda's countryside, with Kigali in the distance. 960 1280

Ashley Gilbertson  

Touring Rwanda

Touring Rwanda

Ayubu atop Mount Kigali with chef Michael Voltaggio and correspondent Mariana van Zeller in Kigali, Rwanda. 960 1280

Ashley Gilbertson  

Nyamata Church

Nyamata Church

Nyamata Church, located about 20 miles from Kigali, is where thousands of Tutsis and moderate Hutus fled persecution in hope that the church would keep them safe, but most of them were killed there. 960 1280

Ashley Gilbertson  

In Memoriam

In Memoriam

On display are skulls and skeletons of the people who died in the church and the surrounding area. 960 1280

Ashley Gilbertson  

Goat Meat

Goat Meat

Michael shops for fresh produce and goat in Kigali’s central market, all for the final dinner. 960 1280

Ashley Gilbertson  

Produce Market

Produce Market

Kigali's central market is packed with fresh produce. 960 1280

Ashley Gilbertson  

Chef Michael in the Kitchen

Chef Michael in the Kitchen

It's the last day in Rwanda, and Michael is in the kitchen, preparing the final meal for his and Mariana’s dinner guests. 960 1280

Ashley Gilbertson  

Dinner is Served

Dinner is Served

Michael's green papaya salad with green vegetables. 960 1280

Ashley Gilbertson  

Michael's Twist on Coq au vin

Michael's Twist on Coq au vin

Coq au vin topped with tomatoes and red wine. 960 1280

Ashley Gilbertson  

Final Dinner in Rwanda

Final Dinner in Rwanda

Mariana and Michael pose for a picture with their dinner guests, who include both Hutus and Tutsis. 960 1280

Ashley Gilbertson  

A Mediterranean Fish Fry

A Mediterranean Fish Fry

After a day spent in the charming Mediterranean city of Byblos, Lebanon, I had no other fish to fry. I ate all of them. 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

Lebanese Cuisine

Lebanese Cuisine

An extreme close-up of a Lebanese meze. Unfortunately, my photo skills don't do it justice. Lebanese food is famous all over the world, and rightfully so. It's definitely on my top 5 list of best places to eat. 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

Old Jerusalem

Old Jerusalem

Pickle seller in Old Jerusalem. Michael Voltaggio and I spent our first and last day in Jerusalem roaming around Souk Khan El-Zeit. We both love to eat and shop, and this open-air market in the Old City was the perfect place for both. Related: Mother of All Conflicts 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

Oskar Schindler

Oskar Schindler

The Mount Zion Catholic Cemetery, where Oskar Schindler is buried. Schindler was a member of the Nazi Party responsible for saving the lives of 1,200 Jews during the Holocaust. His story was portrayed in Steven Spielberg's 1993 movie Schindler's List. 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

West Bank City of Hebron

West Bank City of Hebron

Palestinian men in the West Bank city of Hebron. More than any other place on our trip, this is where we really felt the anger and resentment on both sides of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict. It's another city divided, with around 80% controlled by the Palestinian Authority and the other 20% administered by Israel. 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

Great Pyramids of Giza

Great Pyramids of Giza

The mandatory "look at me at the pyramids" photo. At least one of us is looking in the right direction. Related: Detained in Egypt 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

Cairo

Cairo

The view from my hotel bedroom in Cairo. The Nile is indeed a river in Egypt, and the longest in the world. 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

Traveling in Style

Traveling in Style

I travel a lot, usually to places no one wants to go. But then sometimes, I get lucky. In this case, WE (the chef and I) got lucky. I could do away with the camel riding, but no one's taking the Pyramids of Giza from us. Over 4,500 years of pure wonder that will stay with us forever. 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

Egypt's Spice Rack

Egypt's Spice Rack

A spice shop in the Khan el-Khalili Souk in Cairo. 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

Cooking in Extreme Conditions

Cooking in Extreme Conditions

Michael Voltaggio has cooked in some pretty cool places for this show, but I think he'll agree with me that this one hit the high note. He had just a few hours to cook large amounts of incredibly awesome food, while I tried to make myself useful, but every few minutes, we'd both look up and gasp. 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

Belfast, Northern Ireland

Belfast, Northern Ireland

The "Peace Wall" in Belfast still separates Northern Ireland's Catholic and Protestant communities. It was built following the start of the conflict known as "The Troubles" and has stood for 45 years, longer than the Berlin Wall. Tourists from all over the world write messages on it, as did Michael and I. Can you guess what we wrote? Hint: best show on TV. Also, "peace" in my mother tongue. Related: A History Tour of Ireland 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

Shankill Road, Belfast

Shankill Road, Belfast

Michael in front of a loyalist memorial on Shankill Road in Belfast. Shankill (which means "the old church") was a center for Protestant paramilitarism during the Troubles and was the target of several bomb and gun attacks by the Irish Republican Army, or IRA. 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

Picturesque Sarajevo

Picturesque Sarajevo

The beautiful location of our "big meal" — the Hedona Wine Club in Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina.  960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

Mostar, Bosnia

Mostar, Bosnia

The stunning Stari Most (which means "old bridge") in Mostar was built by the Ottomans in the 16th century. It was completely destroyed during the Bosnian War but was rebuilt in 2004, and it now stands as a symbol of reconciliation and peace. 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

Roadside Roasted Lamb

Roadside Roasted Lamb

Our amazing guide Sabina told us that we had to stop at this roadside restaurant on the way back from Mostar to try the famous Bosnian roasted lamb on a spit. Apparently, these restaurants have become so popular here that they now call this region "the Silence of the Lambs." 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

Chef Michael Voltaggio

Chef Michael Voltaggio

Michael will kill me for telling you this, but he's super afraid of heights. However, he came with me all the way up to the top of a minaret in Mostar. So proud of you, Chef! 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

A Chef's Mind

A Chef's Mind

Michael usually starts jotting down some ideas for the big meal the day before. In Bosnia, I got lucky and got to see his brilliant mind at work. He did all this during our last shoot of the day, at an old bar in Sarajevo. It's a possible list of dishes, ingredients and some food presentation ideas. Wish I'd stolen the original copy. It might well be worth millions one day! :-) 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

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