Breaking Borders: Sarajevo Pictures

Journalist Mariana van Zeller and acclaimed chef Michael Voltaggio travel to Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovnia, to understand how 3 ethnic groups — the Serbs, Croats and Bosniaks — coexist among the ghosts of a fatal past.

Photos

"Big Bill" Campbell Memorial

"Big Bill" Campbell Memorial

Mariana van Zeller and Michael Voltaggio stand in front of a memorial for “Big Bill” Campbell, a commander in the Ulster Volunteer Force (UVF), whose goal was to combat the Irish Republican Army. 960 1280

  

Shankill Road

Shankill Road

Loyalist Plum Smith sits in front of old photos on a wall on Shankill Road, a popular target of the Irish Republican Army (IRA) that has been bombed 3 times, the most recent and deadliest of which occurred in 1993. 960 1280

  

"Dark Hedges" of Northern Ireland

"Dark Hedges" of Northern Ireland

The gorgeous and famous "Dark Hedges" — beech trees that lead up to the Gracehill House — have been featured on Game of Thrones. Related: All Men Must Travel: Game of Thrones Destinations 960 1280

  

Hudson Bar

Hudson Bar

Michael and Mariana sample high-end whiskey at the Hudson Bar in Belfast. 960 1280

  

Top-Shelf Whiskey

Top-Shelf Whiskey

Michael Stewart, owner of the Hudson Bar, right, talks to Michael Voltaggio about the top-shelf whiskey. 960 1280

  

Milltown Cemetery

Milltown Cemetery

The resting place for IRA hunger strikers and generations of Republicans who were buried after "the Troubles," a period of extreme conflict in Northern Ireland that started in the 1960s and reached as far as mainland Europe.


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In Memoriam of Bobby Sands

In Memoriam of Bobby Sands

Michael Voltaggio stands in front of a mural that remembers Bobby Sands, an Irish nationalist who led a hunger strike in prison, where he died. 960 1280

  

Duke of York

Duke of York

Mariana and Michael visit the Duke of York pub in Belfast to get some Guinness. 960 1280

  

"In Your Face"

"In Your Face"

During the Troubles, Belfast native Frankie Quinn took a series of photos that showed Northern Ireland in the 1980s, including this one, titled In Your Face. 960 1280

  

Crumlin Road Jail

Crumlin Road Jail

The Crumlin Road Jail (or gaol) formerly housed several members of the UVF. A section of the interior was damaged in 1991 by a bomb set off by the IRA. Closed down in 1996, Crumlin Road Jail is now one of the most popular sights on Northern Ireland’s "terror tour." It's open for daily public tours and evening paranormal tours. 960 1280

  

Dinner Prep

Dinner Prep

Chef Michael Voltaggio prepares an Irish meal that his grandmother would be proud of for the dinner guests at Crumlin Road Jail. 960 1280

  

Dinner at Crumlin Road Jail

Dinner at Crumlin Road Jail

Guests from opposing sides of the Troubles join Mariana and Michael for a discussion and dinner at the Crumlin Road Jail. 960 1280

  

A Mediterranean Fish Fry

A Mediterranean Fish Fry

After a day spent in the charming Mediterranean city of Byblos, Lebanon, I had no other fish to fry. I ate all of them. 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

Lebanese Cuisine

Lebanese Cuisine

An extreme close-up of a Lebanese meze. Unfortunately, my photo skills don't do it justice. Lebanese food is famous all over the world, and rightfully so. It's definitely on my top 5 list of best places to eat. 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

Old Jerusalem

Old Jerusalem

Pickle seller in Old Jerusalem. Michael Voltaggio and I spent our first and last day in Jerusalem roaming around Souk Khan El-Zeit. We both love to eat and shop, and this open-air market in the Old City was the perfect place for both. Related: Mother of All Conflicts 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

Oskar Schindler

Oskar Schindler

The Mount Zion Catholic Cemetery, where Oskar Schindler is buried. Schindler was a member of the Nazi Party responsible for saving the lives of 1,200 Jews during the Holocaust. His story was portrayed in Steven Spielberg's 1993 movie Schindler's List. 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

West Bank City of Hebron

West Bank City of Hebron

Palestinian men in the West Bank city of Hebron. More than any other place on our trip, this is where we really felt the anger and resentment on both sides of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict. It's another city divided, with around 80% controlled by the Palestinian Authority and the other 20% administered by Israel. 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

Great Pyramids of Giza

Great Pyramids of Giza

The mandatory "look at me at the pyramids" photo. At least one of us is looking in the right direction. Related: Detained in Egypt 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

Cairo

Cairo

The view from my hotel bedroom in Cairo. The Nile is indeed a river in Egypt, and the longest in the world. 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

Traveling in Style

Traveling in Style

I travel a lot, usually to places no one wants to go. But then sometimes, I get lucky. In this case, WE (the chef and I) got lucky. I could do away with the camel riding, but no one's taking the Pyramids of Giza from us. Over 4,500 years of pure wonder that will stay with us forever. 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

Egypt's Spice Rack

Egypt's Spice Rack

A spice shop in the Khan el-Khalili Souk in Cairo. 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

Cooking in Extreme Conditions

Cooking in Extreme Conditions

Michael Voltaggio has cooked in some pretty cool places for this show, but I think he'll agree with me that this one hit the high note. He had just a few hours to cook large amounts of incredibly awesome food, while I tried to make myself useful, but every few minutes, we'd both look up and gasp. 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

Belfast, Northern Ireland

Belfast, Northern Ireland

The "Peace Wall" in Belfast still separates Northern Ireland's Catholic and Protestant communities. It was built following the start of the conflict known as "The Troubles" and has stood for 45 years, longer than the Berlin Wall. Tourists from all over the world write messages on it, as did Michael and I. Can you guess what we wrote? Hint: best show on TV. Also, "peace" in my mother tongue. Related: A History Tour of Ireland 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

Shankill Road, Belfast

Shankill Road, Belfast

Michael in front of a loyalist memorial on Shankill Road in Belfast. Shankill (which means "the old church") was a center for Protestant paramilitarism during the Troubles and was the target of several bomb and gun attacks by the Irish Republican Army, or IRA. 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

Picturesque Sarajevo

Picturesque Sarajevo

The beautiful location of our "big meal" — the Hedona Wine Club in Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina.  960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

Mostar, Bosnia

Mostar, Bosnia

The stunning Stari Most (which means "old bridge") in Mostar was built by the Ottomans in the 16th century. It was completely destroyed during the Bosnian War but was rebuilt in 2004, and it now stands as a symbol of reconciliation and peace. 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

Roadside Roasted Lamb

Roadside Roasted Lamb

Our amazing guide Sabina told us that we had to stop at this roadside restaurant on the way back from Mostar to try the famous Bosnian roasted lamb on a spit. Apparently, these restaurants have become so popular here that they now call this region "the Silence of the Lambs." 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

Chef Michael Voltaggio

Chef Michael Voltaggio

Michael will kill me for telling you this, but he's super afraid of heights. However, he came with me all the way up to the top of a minaret in Mostar. So proud of you, Chef! 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

A Chef's Mind

A Chef's Mind

Michael usually starts jotting down some ideas for the big meal the day before. In Bosnia, I got lucky and got to see his brilliant mind at work. He did all this during our last shoot of the day, at an old bar in Sarajevo. It's a possible list of dishes, ingredients and some food presentation ideas. Wish I'd stolen the original copy. It might well be worth millions one day! :-) 960 1280

Mariana Van Zeller  

Walking Along the Malecon

Walking Along the Malecon

Journalist Mariana van Zeller, chef Michael Voltaggio and local guide/fixer Rolando Almirante walk through Old Havana, Cuba, along the Malecon, an oceanfront walkway. 960 1280

Ashley Gilbertson  

Cuba's Vintage Cars

Cuba's Vintage Cars

One of Cuba's many vintage cars. Mariana, Michael and Rolando ride inside on the way to Santy Restaurant. Related: Why We Love the Cubans 960 1280

Ashley Gilbertson  

A Drink with Ernest Hemingway at Floridita

A Drink with Ernest Hemingway at Floridita

Michael "speaks" with Ernest Hemingway at the Floridita, a bar frequented by the famous American author. 960 1280

Ashley Gilbertson  

Roasted Pig at Paraiso Farm Restaurant

Roasted Pig at Paraiso Farm Restaurant

A beautiful roasted pig is carved for serving at the Paraiso Farm Restaurant in Vinales. 960 1280

Ashley Gilbertson  

Lunch is Served!

Lunch is Served!

Mariana and Michael can hardly hold back their excitement over the roasted pig. 960 1280

Ashley Gilbertson  

Toast to Cuba!

Toast to Cuba!

Mariana and Michael take a moment at the Paraiso Farm to toast their arrival in Cuba. 960 1280

Ashley Gilbertson  

Pass the Cuban!

Pass the Cuban!

Michael enjoys a Cuban cigar alongside Daniel Luis Alvarez, Mariana and a local tobacco farmer in Vinales.  960 1280

Ashley Gilbertson  

Cuba's Famous Cigars

Cuba's Famous Cigars

Resting cigars at Chef Justo Restaurant in Old Havana. 960 1280

Ashley Gilbertson  

Horseback to the Tobacco Farm

Horseback to the Tobacco Farm

Mariana, Michael and a local guide ride horseback to a tobacco farm in Vinales.  960 1280

Ashley Gilbertson  

Prepared Dishes at Chef Justo Restaurant

Prepared Dishes at Chef Justo Restaurant

Prepared dishes at Chef Justo Restaurant in Old Havana. 960 1280

Ashley Gilbertson  

Sushi at Santy Restaurant

Sushi at Santy Restaurant

Mariana and Michael continue their food tour of Cuba at Santy Restaurant, which serves gorgeous and delicious sushi. 960 1280

Ashley Gilbertson  

Sushi at Santy Restaurant

Sushi at Santy Restaurant

More fresh fish on the table at Santy Restaurant. 960 1280

Ashley Gilbertson  

Produce at a Local State Market

Produce at a Local State Market

Mariana and Michael grab fresh produce from a local state market. Michael will use these ingredients to prepare the final meal for his and Mariana’s guests. 960 1280

  

Chef Voltaggio at Work

Chef Voltaggio at Work

Chef Michael Voltaggio at work, cutting away at a taro root. 960 1280

  

What's for Dinner?

What's for Dinner?

Taro with chips and guacamole, one of the many dishes that Michael has prepared for the final meal. Other dishes include a pork shoulder smoked with cigar leaves, Michael’s take on a Cuban sandwich, fried snapper and paella made out of pasta with a coconut shrimp stock. 960 1280

  

The Final Dinner

The Final Dinner

Mariana and Michael toast with their guests — a chef, a tour guide from Vinales and an ex-Cuban diplomat. 960 1280

  

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